Almost at a sprint and out of breath we reached the platform only
to see the fading lights of the last bogie of the train.
‘Not
again’, I told myself. Luckily, we were not boarding.
We had arrived at Tinsukia station well in time to receive my
parents, aunt, brothers and sisters, most of them on their first trip to Assam.
Though they were booked to Dibrugarh, we had planned to receive them at
Tinsukia so as to save them an extra hour on the train. But it was too late
now. Once back on the highway we sped up to keep pace with the train. This was
well before the days of insulated AC compartments and we hoped someone from the
family would peep out of the train window and spot us. Our four-year-old son
Vicky, unable to contain his excitement, was literally hanging out of the car
window in anticipation of some fun; while our good old Ambassador rattled ahead
trying to catch up with the train which had now gathered speed.
It is very interesting to see how closely parallel the train track
and national highway run for a distance of almost 48 kilometers from Tinsukia
to Dibrugarh, so much so that at certain points one can easily shake hands with
the passengers on the train. But on this evening the sky was overcast with dark
clouds, resulting in poor visibility. We had raced up and then slowed down,
covering the length of the moving train, to sight a familiar face; but most of
the shutters were closed. Disappointed and reconciled to a long drive to
Dibrugarh, we carried on.
My mind was racing back in time to the day, a month back, when I
had received a letter confirming my family’s travel plans - but the much
awaited telegram had never arrived. Apprehensions grew whether they were on the
train or not. Had they changed their minds?
The year was 1977 and we were posted at Oaklands – a little Eden
on the banks of the Brahmaputra. The out garden was tucked away in a corner, a
place where telephones were hardly ever functional, roads rarely motorable.
Despite the unpredictable communications we had confirmed the arrival time from
the railway inquiry through a friend. However, taking no chances, we had
arrived at Tinsukia well in time, only to be told that the train was two hours
late. Taking advantage of the time, we proceeded to have a cup of tea in town
with a friend. The hostess had barely poured tea in the cups when the hoot of
an engine sounded and our friend, living in close vicinity of the station for
years, exclaimed with surety, “I think that’s your train.”
Leaving our cups untouched we hurried towards the station but by
the time we meandered through the traffic and parked, considerable time had
elapsed. We had missed the train, and this was not the first time - but that is
another story. It is a fact that till air travel improved and the broad gauge was installed, no one - I repeat no one - from outside Assam reached us on a personal
visit without a hitch.
To continue, as if in response to little Vicky’s prayers, as we
crossed Dikom Station (no halt) I saw my sister looking out from her
compartment window and at the same moment she spotted us. One by one more
shutters were rolled up and beaming faces of my younger siblings grinned at us.
What excitement ensued! We were all waving, laughing and singing a la Rajesh
Khanna from the Bollywood blockbuster ‘Aradhana’. This continued Dikom
onwards till the rail track and the road parted as we neared Dibrugarh town. By
the time we reached the platform the train was chugging in and screeching to a
halt. Well, all’s well that ends well. A ‘miss’ at Tinsukia earlier had
resulted in great fun. All of us still treasure the memory of that journey with
nostalgia and affection.
Another incident took place much earlier in 1973, the year we got
married and I came to Salonah in Nowgong district. A clerk from my
father-in-law’s office was visiting Assam and was carrying a parcel of mangoes.
The exotic king of fruits was a rare commodity in Assam then.
His journey brought him
very close to his destination but not close enough. At the railway inquiry
office in Guwahati he showed our postal address and was thrilled to see the
name of Salona station on the rail chart. Salona was a small railway station,
very close to Salonah tea garden, where one local passenger and one goods train
would arrive every day.
Secured with this information he boarded the only train
to his destination. The Metro-city man, expecting a cemented platform with
regular information announcements, porters to carry luggage and auto-rickshaws
in waiting, was in for the shock of his life. He found that he was the only
passenger who had got down at Salona. There was no platform and just a small
shack for an office. A single beam of light emerging from it barely penetrated
the darkness that had descended very early.
Dragging his own suitcase and
the mango parcel he somehow walked up to the cabin to find a solution for his
colossal problem - where was Salonah tea garden and how could he reach it? But
no words answered him. Only a finger pointed towards one direction.
He dragged himself a little further ahead and saw a man on a
bicycle carrying a cane basket piled with dozens of raw bananas. On inquiry he
was once again given a direction but no manual help to carry his luggage. With
a pounding heart he waited, wondering what to do next. Moments dragged on; his
imagination playing tricks on him started to cast shadows of prowling wild life
in the darkness and a shiver crept through his body.
After what seemed ages but
was only a few minutes, he saw another man - and as luck would have it, it was
a Salonah garden labourer. On hearing the familiar name ‘Rajan Mehra’ he
immediately paid his customary obeisance, ‘Salaam sahib’ and offered to carry
the parcel and guide him to our bungalow.
Thus arrived on our doorstep our first visitor from Delhi, very
shaky and stressed out indeed but with the mango parcel intact. Years later I
came to know that he would regale the entire office staff with his exaggerated
version of the story in which the imaginary prowling animal became a real one.
Meet the writer: Shalini Mehra
I
can neither boast of any career, nor of great feats; yes, a tag of
gypsy is befitting as all through my life I
have been wandering from one interest to another, returning home to one,
then moving to new pastures. To use the cliché, I have been ‘Jack of
all and Master of none’. The best part is that I have enjoyed the
freedom of expressing myself through different mediums, be it music,
dance, cooking, gardening, flower arranging or making dry flower frames,
reading and writing. The last was always a moody muse till The Camellia
happened.
During my wanderings I stumbled upon an idea when the new age of
internet dawned upon the backwoods of the tea plantations. Life in tea
has been unusual, very often bordering to inconceivable, and those
real-life stories, so often almost fictional, needed to be told. The
idea took a shape and thus the first ever Tea Planters’ Interclub
magazine ‘The Camellia’, ‘for the planters, by the planters, of the
planters’ was born in the sanctum sanctorum of my study. Thus, began the
journey with pangs and pleasures of the birth and rearing up of my
brainchild. If that can be called a milestone, it was surely one for me.
It makes me so proud that during this journey I made a lot of friends
who shared my passion and extended their help. And Gowri Mohanakrishnan,
moving with the times, took a step further and created ‘Indian Chai
Stories’ - the tea stories blog. I extend my wholehearted support and
best wishes to her.
Is this your first visit here? Welcome
to Indian Chai Stories! Do you have a chai story of your own to share?
Send it to me here, please : indianchaistories@gmail.com.
My name is Gowri Mohanakrishnan and
I'm a tea planter's wife. I started this blog because one of the things
that I wouldn't want us to lose in a fast changing world is the tea
story - a story always told with great seriousness, no matter how funny -
always true (always), maybe a tall tale, long, or short, impossible,
scary, funny or exciting but never dull.
Happy reading! Cheers to the spirit of Indian Tea!
Hi Shalini - yes, I remember that railway line very well. Quite often, whilst proceeding from Tinsukia to any garden between Dibrugarh and say Panitola, I was in my left hand dive Jeep, which of course would make it quite near to the railway line, and a Tinsukia to Dibrugarh train would be running down the line. Many a time the engine driver was an Anglo-Indian gentleman, with a rather oily bandana on his head. When I was driving level with the steam engine, the driver used to often wave to me and blow the whistle. It amazed me how those trains stayed on the line at that time, as you would note how the whole train rocked and rolled as it went along. The rail lines were not that straight, although the distance between each rail remained constant, otherwise it would have derailed! By the time I got to the Nudwa turn off, or the entry to Nahortoli, I would wave a cheery goodbye to the driver. I never knew who he was, but I had commented about him to a friend, Blair Williams, in New York and he gave me a name, but of course I would not have 'known him from Adam'. Blair Williams used to be in the Traffic Department at Dibrugarh station.
ReplyDeleteOh wow! That description of the Salona station makes me want to go back in time to visit.
ReplyDeleteAs exciting a description of a chase as any I have read. Terrific writing style. And the story of the man with the mango parcel and Salona station tickled me.
ReplyDeleteHaha! This was fun to read!
ReplyDeleteIn those days train journeys and railway stations were unique! trains were held up for you as being a planter-a Sahib was being somebody! Today alas! you won't be able recognise one!
ReplyDeleteWhat excitement ensued! We were all waving, laughing and singing a la Rajesh Khanna from the Bollywood blockbuster ‘Aradhana’.
ReplyDeleteFor an earlier generation, this would be the song: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a08BHoTFgsY
What a delightful narration - both the stories. Who can blame the visitor from Delhi for embellishments in his retelling of his experience - we can allow him that ! As for the car chase oh what fun .Your four year old’s favourite memory I’m sure ! One imagine all of you belting out the Sapnon ki Rani anthem ! However my favourite lines in the story are : The year was 1977 and we were posted at Oaklands – a little Eden on the banks of the Brahmaputra.
ReplyDeleteA little Eden - how beautiful .So happy to have this shared by Gowri specially for Chai for Cancer .